My first diamond crotch

[rydra_wong]

THIS IS NOT A POST ABOUT VAJAZZLING I SWEAR.

A "diamond crotch" (a.k.a. diamond-cut crotch, diamond gusset, etc.) is a way to add fabric to an existing pair of trousers.

It's an obvious fix for trousers that are too short in the crotch, but it also increases hip mobility and how far you can kick, squat or stretch your legs apart without ripping the seams.

So it's very useful for sports -- e.g. yoga, martial arts, or rock climbing (I have a pair of climbing jeans with a diamond crotch, which is why I wanted to learn how to sew one).

They're also the secret behind the legendary Chuck Norris Action Jeans, so how could I resist?

The basic principle is extremely simple. You undo the stitching along the inside-leg seam of the trousers, then you insert an extra piece of fabric in the shape of an elongated diamond.

Guides:

Make your own "Thrower's" Pants
Snakes in a Drain/A Look at The Crotch (scroll down)

I know these seem quite vague, but it all becomes clear once you start working on it.





Here we are in progress: I've turned the trousers inside out, opened the seam, decided how much fabric I want to add, then tacked the insert in for testing purposes before starting to sew it into place properly.

I used a slightly stretchy fabric for the insert to add extra manoeuvrability.



Completed, and right side out again.

The trousers are photographed in this awkward spreadeagled position because once the insert's finished, you can't see it in anything except a crotch shot. When you're wearing the trousers, it's effectively invisible.

I'm pretty pleased with this as a first attempt and have been going round the house doing high kicks to test it out.



In another climbing-related sewing project, I made another chalkbag out of a remnant scrap of brocade from an upholstery shop.

This time, I used a simple cylindrical design, but added a hidden zipped pocket at the back (and a tiny velcro pocket tucked between the outer bag and inner liner). I've finally learned how to sew a "blind hem", so there are almost no visible stitches at all.

Comments

[aldersprig]

Well done!

I have nightmare about blind-hems; we re-curtained my room when I was 13 and my mom made me hem all the curtains myself. Means I tend to be lazy and machine-stitch hems now ;-D

[rydra_wong]

See, everything except how to thread a needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread, I taught myself. So I am mercifully free of traumatic sewing-related memories. *g*

[aldersprig]

Wow, go you!

I'm lazy and have the attention span of... hey look a ferret!

Um. But yeah, well done! (The curtains are still hanging in what was my bedroom (ulp) 22 years later, so I guess I did okay).

[delladea]

Neat!

I actually have a pair of pants that are too small in the crotch, so this is very helpful to me. Blind hems and I still don't get along.

[rydra_wong]

Your choice of icon is extremely apt!

[weaverbird]

Nice work on both!

I've used diamond gussets in underarm seams before, but never thought of using it in the crotch. What a nifty idea. Thank you!

[rydra_wong]

This is the first time I've sewn a gusset of any kind, and it would never have occurred to me had it not been for the climbing jeans.

I ended up trying it on a sacrificial pair of trousers that I'd bought from the EVERYTHING £2 section of the secondhand shop, originally with the intention of ripping them up to scavenge material, zips and fastenings. They were too short in the crotch so they didn't even fit anyway. But now they may actually be usable.

[weaverbird]

Good idea to try it out on sacrificial trousers! Much less anxiety that way.

I learned about gussets from a book on sewing handwoven fabric into garments using only rectangles, as it's a way to add ease without using much fabric, and with no waste - always a major goal with handwovens. Here's a coat where I used an underarm gusset. The sleeve portion is at the top of the picture; the garment side seam at bottom center. It worked like a charm - even though the sleeves are fairly narrow, the coat is comfortable and with plenty of easy of movement.

[rydra_wong]

I imagine that if it didn't work out, I could simply open up the seams, remove the insert, and re-sew the inside leg seam back as it was. But I didn't want to try it for the first time on anything precious!

Those handwoven fabrics are amazing.

[weaverbird]

True!

And thanks! That's my $1.29 coat. I wove the fabric entirely of yarn left over from various commissions, some of which I dyed with walnut hulls from a tree near here. The $1.29 was for sewing thread to assemble it. I wore it for five winters. *g*

[19_crows]

Do you remember Chi pants, in the 80s? (I think) That was their big deal. They were very comfortable. Now I have a couple of pairs of pants from LL Bean that have the same kind of construction.

I hadn't heard "diamond crotch" before, always seen it referred to as a "gusset" (which can exist in armpits or anywhere else an extra piece of fabric can be helpful.)

[rydra_wong]

I don't remember Chi pants. But in the 80s I hadn't really started to notice clothes yet, let alone differences in their construction.

I hadn't heard "diamond crotch" before, always seen it referred to as a "gusset"

I first encountered it as "diamond crotch", and have not yet stopped finding that hilarious.

[turlough]

I've used gussets heaps of times before, mainly in underarm seams, but I've never realised you could use them like this. Such a neat idea. *bookmarks*

[rydra_wong]

Nifty, isn't it? And amazingly invisible from outside.

[wpadmirer]

Nice chalk bag! I love ones with zippered pockets.

[rydra_wong]

You can never have too many zippered pockets!

[feanna]

I have heard of the concept before, though I've never gotten around to trying it. I wonder whether I could make it bigger and use it to fix pants that have the typical bike damage that happens if you bike everywhere. (Disintegration where the inside thigh moves against the saddle.) It'd probably be visible, but I could pick a fabric that's close in colour. And increased range of movement would be a bonus.

[rydra_wong]

No reason why not -- I imagine you could quite easily extend the diamond to patch over a bit of damage.

[ogmerlin]

awesome,I knew what I had to do but had no idea of how to go about it. I'm slimming the legs on a pair of Military pants but, I'll also lose crotch space in the process. thanks for an explanation!

[rydra_wong]

Yay, glad it was helpful!

Thank you!

[motelmania.blogspot.com]

You rock. Thanks for your post and great photos. I've just made my own diamond gusset in an otherwise fabulous skort from Athleta. I'll be thinking of you as I (comfortably) walk the Coast to Coast path across England this month!