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sewing2011-04-28 01:35 am
crankyoldman) wrote in sewing2011-04-28 01:35 am
Sewing and Cosplay Week: Beginner Sewing
I was asked to crosspost this here. I actually wrote this on Monday, but posting it here now. I'll post Tuesday's tomorrow and so forth until I stop babbling about sewing. I started sewing mostly for cosplay, so I'll have that slant.
Today is all about the trials and tribulations of beginner sewing, as I know several of you are starting out with machines. Keep in mind, I am basically 99% self-taught and am constantly finding better more finished ways to do things as I go along, which people who have had some formal experience would laugh about.
But hey, at least I'm doing it, right?
I'm going to focus on women's clothing, mostly because I'm just now getting to my first men's clothing project. Not because I forget about you menfolk. I just can't say. If you want a good source of talk about men's sewing projects, I suggest Male Pattern Boldness. During his sew-alongs he goes through things step by step, and has lots of comments on both mens and womens patterns, particularly vintage.
- Fold the cloth in half and then cut if you have to cut two of the same pattern piece. Yes, I seriously did not know this at first. It saves time and makes your pieces match up better. Also, if it tells you to cut on the fold on the pattern, cut on the fold.
- Get to know how your machine handles a straight stitch before you try anything curved. Some machines have quirks. Effy (my oldest machine) was very quirky. In fact, learning on a slightly difficult machine makes it so much easier to handle ones that are friendlier.
- Woven fabrics are what you want to start with. Don't even look at stretch fabrics until you've figured out how to make something on a woven fabric, as stretch fabrics do FUNNY things.
- Bias tape is an intermediate skill, not a first project especially on a curve (yes, I did that as a first project, it disturbs me how long it took).
- Coats are actually good first projects, if you can handle sleeves. Anything with long, straight panels is excellent for beginners.
- If you're going to be doing a lot of fitted stuff, get a dressform. Seriously. It will save you time and frustration. If your measurements allow, an adjustable dressform tends to be on the cheaper side. That is still not actually cheap, but cheaper than a custom one.
- This is a slipstitch. When you pattern calls for one (and a lot of patterns do) this is what they mean. And no, they don't show you in the directions. And yes, you will have to do that by hand.
- It's easier to pick a pattern that fits your widest part that doesn't conform to an hourglass (for me, it's my waist) and then take in where it's big than the other way around. For example: when I make a bodycon dress, I always pick the pattern that matches my waist, then take in the bust and hips to fit my straight figure, rather than draft a larger waist. This allows for mistakes as well.
- In general, it's easier to take in than it is to expand. So buy more fabric than you think you'll need, leaving more of a margin of error depending on your confidence. I'm much more confident now, and can fix a mistake easier than before, so I am much closer to the suggested yardage than I used to be. When starting out, you may need as much as a half a yard of error to give yourself.
- Invest in a couple patterns. Seriously. If you go at the right times or find the right sites, you can get them for under a dollar. If you're plus sized and have issues finding patterns to fit you, then look up about pattern grading. Or how to make a pattern bigger to fit you. Annoying, I know, but it just uses paper and you can practice that a bit.
- Easy Sew types of patterns may not always be easy to sew. The best way to tell if a pattern will be easy is by looking at the back and the views. Is there a lot of panels? Darts? Funky edges? Avoid. Look for straight panels, lots of ease (aka: room for you to move in the garment), and basic silhouettes.
- Save all your scraps! Unless they are tiny things from trimming your seams. In that case, toss. But scraps are handy for a bajillion things, and good if you just want to practice a stitch.
- It's not a failure to rip out a seam and start again. Really. Just make sure that you have lots of thread if you are having difficulties.
- Vintage thread is just as good as new thread, PROVIDED IT IS THE RIGHT TYPE. Embroidery thread does NOT go in your sewing machine. It won't play nice.
- If your thread breaks a lot it could be one of three things: 1) Your machine tension is too tight 2) your thread is not made for machine sewing 3) your needle is dull. Check the things in that order.
- Set-in sleeves are hard. These are the sleeves you see on most shirts. If it fits your project, raglan sleeves are far more forgiving.
- You don't have to buy interfacing from the store. Though iron-on interfacing is EASIER. If you don't want to buy interfacing and just use scraps (like me!) then check this out.
- Men's shirts are actually really complicated and easy to make look stupid. Start with altering men's shirts before starting to make any.
- Sew two lines of stitches for ruffles before you gather. This makes it less likely for you to break the thread while gathering if you're pulling two threads.
- IRON. EVERYTHING. This is how it looks more professional. Make sure to know the content of the fabric you're using so you don't accidentally scorch it. Also, if you just dyed fabric, use a lower setting. And taffeta hates water.
- PRESHRINK. EVERYTHING. Wash your fabric before sewing, unless you want to see those nice seams you made suddenly look like shit the first time you wash it. AGAIN I LEARNED THIS FROM EXPERIENCE.
- Say no to polyester. Really. Even for cosplay. It's just not good. Cotton/poly blends are ok if you have more cotton than poly.
- The shinier a fabric is, the more is shows off any imperfections in the construction.
- Pleather is kind of amazing these days. But you can't pin it, as it shows holes!
Now for some beginner projects.
- Altering clothes you already own! Don't work on something you LOVE though, just something you'd like to fit better. Taking in a shirt, hemming, and other things like that are really good practice. Leave collars and cuffs alone, though. If you're looking for ideas, Anthropologie has a lot of clothes that you can sort of mimick with a little creativity and sewing skillz.
- Aprons. Though some call for bias tape, so beware. They don't require much fitting and teach a lot of the basics for machine sewing. I'm a huge fan of this pattern because it has many different combinations. Of course, the standard type of apron is fine too, I just find it a little boring. XD
- Bags. There are a bajillion and one free patterns for bags out there. Try to look for something without a zipper. A square tote style would be best for a beginner project.
- For clothing, I've found that I really like the Project Runway series of patterns. They're very "mix and match" with things that you can do with them, and for the most part rather easy to follow. My Daryl coat was one of those patterns, and it came out quite well, I think. And there are other patterns I've liked too. Here's several that I recommend:
+ A cute flouncy dress
+ My favorite coat pattern
+ A decent fauxmono
+ A cute dress that mimicks a trenchcoat that I sort of want now badly. This will make you learn to use the buttonholer!
+ Another cute, somewhat 80s (in a good way, imo) dress with buttons. Buttons before zippers!
+ Super uncomplicated top patterns.
+ Tunics are your friend if you want practice.
+ You'll have to learn gathering for this, but this skirt isn't too bad.
But, as always, go for things that you are INTERESTED in making. If the skillz to make it are something you don't have, try to find ways to simplify it, or things that are close until you get more confident. Remember, the more fitted something is, likely the more construction went into it. Loose and breezy will be easier than say, a corset. You're taking something 2D and wrapping it around something 3D. It's how it goes.
Today is all about the trials and tribulations of beginner sewing, as I know several of you are starting out with machines. Keep in mind, I am basically 99% self-taught and am constantly finding better more finished ways to do things as I go along, which people who have had some formal experience would laugh about.
But hey, at least I'm doing it, right?
I'm going to focus on women's clothing, mostly because I'm just now getting to my first men's clothing project. Not because I forget about you menfolk. I just can't say. If you want a good source of talk about men's sewing projects, I suggest Male Pattern Boldness. During his sew-alongs he goes through things step by step, and has lots of comments on both mens and womens patterns, particularly vintage.
- Fold the cloth in half and then cut if you have to cut two of the same pattern piece. Yes, I seriously did not know this at first. It saves time and makes your pieces match up better. Also, if it tells you to cut on the fold on the pattern, cut on the fold.
- Get to know how your machine handles a straight stitch before you try anything curved. Some machines have quirks. Effy (my oldest machine) was very quirky. In fact, learning on a slightly difficult machine makes it so much easier to handle ones that are friendlier.
- Woven fabrics are what you want to start with. Don't even look at stretch fabrics until you've figured out how to make something on a woven fabric, as stretch fabrics do FUNNY things.
- Bias tape is an intermediate skill, not a first project especially on a curve (yes, I did that as a first project, it disturbs me how long it took).
- Coats are actually good first projects, if you can handle sleeves. Anything with long, straight panels is excellent for beginners.
- If you're going to be doing a lot of fitted stuff, get a dressform. Seriously. It will save you time and frustration. If your measurements allow, an adjustable dressform tends to be on the cheaper side. That is still not actually cheap, but cheaper than a custom one.
- This is a slipstitch. When you pattern calls for one (and a lot of patterns do) this is what they mean. And no, they don't show you in the directions. And yes, you will have to do that by hand.
- It's easier to pick a pattern that fits your widest part that doesn't conform to an hourglass (for me, it's my waist) and then take in where it's big than the other way around. For example: when I make a bodycon dress, I always pick the pattern that matches my waist, then take in the bust and hips to fit my straight figure, rather than draft a larger waist. This allows for mistakes as well.
- In general, it's easier to take in than it is to expand. So buy more fabric than you think you'll need, leaving more of a margin of error depending on your confidence. I'm much more confident now, and can fix a mistake easier than before, so I am much closer to the suggested yardage than I used to be. When starting out, you may need as much as a half a yard of error to give yourself.
- Invest in a couple patterns. Seriously. If you go at the right times or find the right sites, you can get them for under a dollar. If you're plus sized and have issues finding patterns to fit you, then look up about pattern grading. Or how to make a pattern bigger to fit you. Annoying, I know, but it just uses paper and you can practice that a bit.
- Easy Sew types of patterns may not always be easy to sew. The best way to tell if a pattern will be easy is by looking at the back and the views. Is there a lot of panels? Darts? Funky edges? Avoid. Look for straight panels, lots of ease (aka: room for you to move in the garment), and basic silhouettes.
- Save all your scraps! Unless they are tiny things from trimming your seams. In that case, toss. But scraps are handy for a bajillion things, and good if you just want to practice a stitch.
- It's not a failure to rip out a seam and start again. Really. Just make sure that you have lots of thread if you are having difficulties.
- Vintage thread is just as good as new thread, PROVIDED IT IS THE RIGHT TYPE. Embroidery thread does NOT go in your sewing machine. It won't play nice.
- If your thread breaks a lot it could be one of three things: 1) Your machine tension is too tight 2) your thread is not made for machine sewing 3) your needle is dull. Check the things in that order.
- Set-in sleeves are hard. These are the sleeves you see on most shirts. If it fits your project, raglan sleeves are far more forgiving.
- You don't have to buy interfacing from the store. Though iron-on interfacing is EASIER. If you don't want to buy interfacing and just use scraps (like me!) then check this out.
- Men's shirts are actually really complicated and easy to make look stupid. Start with altering men's shirts before starting to make any.
- Sew two lines of stitches for ruffles before you gather. This makes it less likely for you to break the thread while gathering if you're pulling two threads.
- IRON. EVERYTHING. This is how it looks more professional. Make sure to know the content of the fabric you're using so you don't accidentally scorch it. Also, if you just dyed fabric, use a lower setting. And taffeta hates water.
- PRESHRINK. EVERYTHING. Wash your fabric before sewing, unless you want to see those nice seams you made suddenly look like shit the first time you wash it. AGAIN I LEARNED THIS FROM EXPERIENCE.
- Say no to polyester. Really. Even for cosplay. It's just not good. Cotton/poly blends are ok if you have more cotton than poly.
- The shinier a fabric is, the more is shows off any imperfections in the construction.
- Pleather is kind of amazing these days. But you can't pin it, as it shows holes!
Now for some beginner projects.
- Altering clothes you already own! Don't work on something you LOVE though, just something you'd like to fit better. Taking in a shirt, hemming, and other things like that are really good practice. Leave collars and cuffs alone, though. If you're looking for ideas, Anthropologie has a lot of clothes that you can sort of mimick with a little creativity and sewing skillz.
- Aprons. Though some call for bias tape, so beware. They don't require much fitting and teach a lot of the basics for machine sewing. I'm a huge fan of this pattern because it has many different combinations. Of course, the standard type of apron is fine too, I just find it a little boring. XD
- Bags. There are a bajillion and one free patterns for bags out there. Try to look for something without a zipper. A square tote style would be best for a beginner project.
- For clothing, I've found that I really like the Project Runway series of patterns. They're very "mix and match" with things that you can do with them, and for the most part rather easy to follow. My Daryl coat was one of those patterns, and it came out quite well, I think. And there are other patterns I've liked too. Here's several that I recommend:
+ A cute flouncy dress
+ My favorite coat pattern
+ A decent fauxmono
+ A cute dress that mimicks a trenchcoat that I sort of want now badly. This will make you learn to use the buttonholer!
+ Another cute, somewhat 80s (in a good way, imo) dress with buttons. Buttons before zippers!
+ Super uncomplicated top patterns.
+ Tunics are your friend if you want practice.
+ You'll have to learn gathering for this, but this skirt isn't too bad.
But, as always, go for things that you are INTERESTED in making. If the skillz to make it are something you don't have, try to find ways to simplify it, or things that are close until you get more confident. Remember, the more fitted something is, likely the more construction went into it. Loose and breezy will be easier than say, a corset. You're taking something 2D and wrapping it around something 3D. It's how it goes.
no subject
Easy Sew types of patterns may not always be easy to sew.
This is true. Some pattern brands are also just better than others - better fit, better instructions, better everything. In my opinion Vogue is the best commercial pattern line, with McCalls second. I intensely dislike Simplicity and Butterick, but your views may vary.
Vintage thread is just as good as new thread
This really depends on the fiber content. Cotton, if stored properly, should be fine. Silk, however, degrades with time. Generally you're better off using new thread. And while we're talking about thread - it really is worth it to spend a few extra dollars and buy the nice thread. It will break and snarl less.
Sew two lines of stitches for ruffles before you gather.
YES! Sew one line of gathering stitches inside your seamline, and one outside, and they will hold the gathers in place when you sew over them. And here's another handy trick: use button weight (extra heavy) thread in your bobbin if you're gathering heavy fabric or multiple layers, and then pull on that. It's way stronger.
Say no to polyester. Really. Even for cosplay. It's just not good.
PREACH IT! Arrgghh, I hate seeing kids using cheap polyester satin for their cosplays. There is literally no way it will look good, and it's a pain to sew anyway.
And finally - if you're interested in learning to sew, lessons are a great way to learn! Fabric shops frequently offer sewing classes, and private lessons are also pretty easy to find.
no subject
Cotton thread is subject to dry rotting over time as well, so test all thread before using it. Pull out a length and break it off using your hands. If it breaks easily, the thread is dry rotted and should be thrown away. If it takes a fair amount of effort to break it, it is still good and can be used.
A friend of mine turned me on to using Gutermann thread. It's expensive as thread goes, but with sales and coupons it becomes no more expensive than the other stuff normally is.
no subject
Take a length of perl cotton or dental floss. Use a wide zigzag to sew across it. This is the second-best gathering trick I know. The cotton or floss will never break, because it's not actually getting pulled through the fabric.
(the best gathering trick I learned last weekend, and is the wonder and fucking glory that is the ruffler foot, but that's sort of specialist).
When you are inserting a zipper (scary, but easier than it seems), instead of pinning it into place, fuse it into place with the narrow (1/4 inch) stitch witch fusible web. It won't budge and you won't have the awkward bit where you sew over pins or the zipper slips.
Mark the dots. And the notches. Even if you think you won't need them, because eventually you will. The quilters have all the good marking toys, and they are not stored with everyone else's notions.
1 needle: 1 project. Needles are cheap, especially if you buy them when they are half off. The time you spend fighting with a needle that doesn't seem dull but is is a lot. Also, there are special needles for some fabrics, specifically denim and knits. These will reduce crying if you are working with those fabrics.
Buy one good pair of sewing shears. Never use them for anything else. Hide them from your family if necessary.
If you are going to grade patterns or alter them, there is some stuff in the interfacing section that feels a little like fusible interfacing, but is not interfacing, and is marked in one inch grids. It's excellent for redrafting and altering patterns. I have taken to buying it by the bolt and tracing all my patterns onto it instead of cutting them out. I have "fitting issues" so everything I make is altered anyway.
Don't try to stuff your patterns back in the envelope. Store the envelope and all the pattern pieces in a 1-gallon ziplock bag.
They are not kidding about the grainline and nap markings. If you do not pay attention to this, your clothes will look bad and hang strangely.
Long pins are easier to work with. If you are working with silk, satin, or knits, look for the special pins for the task.
Spray starch may help when you are working with especially soft or slippery fabrics, as long as those fabrics are washable.
If you are trying to get around a curve, more pins are better. Go slowly and have faith. After you have gone around the curve, clip it following instructions. Proper clipping makes your clothes lay right.
Have fun! Start with something low-stakes and not on a deadline, and remember that it is a hobby, not a test.
no subject
So yeah, that would explain some of the THINGS I WISH I'D KNOWN.
And the ziploc trick was a great thing to learn, I'm so glad I picked it up my patterns thank me. XD
But yeah, great additions.
no subject
Right tool for the job.
You can make do without a lot, but if you are trying to sew with a garage sail disaster machine, you'll just end up pulling your hair out. Better to save up, and buy a machine (even a cheap one) that is reputable. In that vein, if you buy used, spend the extra money to have it checked out, and tuned up at a shop.
Same with sewing tools. Want to make your own bias tape? Just buy the stupid bias tape maker, instead of spending ages folding it all by hand. Scissors? Don't use the paper scissors from the living room, ever. You'll regret it. Pins? Don't go with the super cheap bendy ones.
Having the right tools makes the job easier, and less likely to devolve into frustration.