Halp! Pretty please!

[lauchlen]

Hello everyone,

This is going to be long, so please bear with me.

I'm drafting a pattern based on a tutorial from Weekend Designer. I've blogged about it a few times already, which you can check out if you like for background info.

I have the pattern all drafted up, but I think it's incorrect. Here's a copy/paste of the blog post:

Link to the tutorial.


The self-measurements needed for the point to points are:
Back Width: 14.5"
Back Waist Length: 13"
Bust: 45"
Waist: 37"
Dart: 4"

Point to points are:

(Pattern Diagram.)

A-B: 0.75"
B-C: 13"
B-D: 6.5"
D-E: 3.25"
D-F: 22.5"
D-I: 7.25"
F-J: 9.75"
F-O: 6.5"
G-Q: 3"
Q-R: 4"
F-S: 4.875"
S-T: 0.5"
D-U: 1.625"
H-V: 14.5"

I have the pattern drafted using the above measurements – except there's a problem. My pattern doesn't look much like the one provided. Hardly at all actually, especially the lower portion.

It could be due to the fact I'm short waisted and large in the bust... but I doubt it.

Lets break down the measurements I think cause the problem and how they are obtained.

The B-C measurement is back waist length (BWL), 13".
B-D is half my BWL, 6.5".
D-E is one quarter of my BWL, 3.25".

This effectively divides the entire pattern from point B down, into quarters. Point D to C is exactly half my BWL, just like point D to point B is half my BWL.

It also divides the other side of the pattern into quarters. Point F to H is half my BWL. Point F to N is one quarter my BWL. Point F to G is half my BWL plus 3/4".

Why is this problematic?

Well, if you look at the measurement calculation for point F to O, it says F to O is two times the distance of N-F. We've already established the N-F is one quarter my BWL. Which means F-O is the same measurement as B-D; 6.5".

When measuring 6.5" down from point F to mark point O, we're left with only 3/4" between point O and H. Just like we're left with 3/4" between point B and A when we draw the point from B to D. Because the pattern has been divided into quarters above and below points D and F.

If you look at the diagram provided, there is supposed to be a lot more than 3/4" between O and H. In fact, for the squaring of P to V to work properly, there needs to be distance.

The drawing says it is not to scale, except I've never come across a drawing that far from scale.

So I'm scratching my head and wondering what to do.

Are the instructions correct despite my tingling senses saying they probably are not?

Help, please?

(I've sewn up my draft and it is no where near to fitting me. The lower edge of the pattern measures a total of 22.5". It needs to measure 38", my underbust.)

So either I drafted it up wrong or the instructions are wrong. Either way, does anyone have any idea what I can do to fix it?

As requested, here is a pic of the pattern drafted up:



The letters for the right hand side's top three points aren't marked, but are, in decending order, G, N and F.

Here's a pic of the pattern cut out and splayed:



And here's a pic of half the bodice sewn up as it's supposed to be on completion:



I hope the pics help!


Cross-posted to sca_attire.