I did realise in retrospect that the upper bust measurement/dart size subtraction should happen at the point on the body the actual upper bust is, although the final design line of the finished dress might sit lower (and thus have a proportionally smaller amount taken out). Nevertheless, I think it's much better to size that X dart based on upper bust than waist/shoulder (as they do).
That was when my alarm bells really rang - they were working off a drafting rule for a full, shoulder-to-waist bodice, and I did enough pattern drafting classes to understand that you need a different base pattern when the bodice is strapless (or strappy, but the fitted part only goes just above the bust), to fit more closely just above and below the bust.
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Date: 2010-10-25 10:46 am (UTC)I did realise in retrospect that the upper bust measurement/dart size subtraction should happen at the point on the body the actual upper bust is, although the final design line of the finished dress might sit lower (and thus have a proportionally smaller amount taken out). Nevertheless, I think it's much better to size that X dart based on upper bust than waist/shoulder (as they do).
That was when my alarm bells really rang - they were working off a drafting rule for a full, shoulder-to-waist bodice, and I did enough pattern drafting classes to understand that you need a different base pattern when the bodice is strapless (or strappy, but the fitted part only goes just above the bust), to fit more closely just above and below the bust.