I am reassured that it wasn't just me being utterly confused by the math! The 1.5" difference in in the BWL doesn't really seem like enough to make that much of a difference. Something seems to be really weird with the pattern instructions.
I would start by altering the pattern so the underbust length is actually long enough to fit you. I would do this by making the line from CB to P one half of your back width (measured from side-seam to side-seam along your braline, or wherever the bottom of the bodice is going to lie) and then making the line from P to O one half of your front underbust measurement (side-seam to side-seam, under your bust,) plus the dart. Does that make sense? I think that whatever you do, you're going to have to redraft most of the pattern.
It might be worth it to go to a library and see if they have any books on drafting. I have The Costume Technician's Handbook, by Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey, which goes over basic drafting techniques. It's aimed more at theater costuming, but the basic information is still useful.
![[community profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/community.png){kind=small}
![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2010-10-21 07:33 pm (UTC)I would start by altering the pattern so the underbust length is actually long enough to fit you. I would do this by making the line from CB to P one half of your back width (measured from side-seam to side-seam along your braline, or wherever the bottom of the bodice is going to lie) and then making the line from P to O one half of your front underbust measurement (side-seam to side-seam, under your bust,) plus the dart. Does that make sense? I think that whatever you do, you're going to have to redraft most of the pattern.
It might be worth it to go to a library and see if they have any books on drafting. I have The Costume Technician's Handbook, by Rosemary Ingham and Liz Covey, which goes over basic drafting techniques. It's aimed more at theater costuming, but the basic information is still useful.